Marine Serre Fall 2025: Making Coin
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In a French fashion industry dominated by conglomerates, Marine Serre is an outlier. Since founding her brand in 2017, she’s remained independent and challenged the system with an “eco-futurist” approach based on upcycling. Her early shows were staged on sets evoking climate apocalypse and oil spills, so it was highly symbolic that she presented her fall line at the Monnaie de Paris. The reception rooms of the 18th-century building were draped in red curtains, a tribute to the late film director David Lynch. Guests found on their seats a little red box containing a gold coin pendant. One side was stamped with Serre’s profile, the other with her signature crescent moon motif. A girl making her own coin? Still revolutionary in France. Backstage, Serre said she wanted to show that a thirtysomething female entrepreneur could occupy the Paris mint, one of the oldest institutions in France. “Today, it’s really difficult, I think, for young designers to have a voice. It’s just all about money,” she said. You May Also Like Her “Heads or Tails” collection was designed to illustrate how the brand has grown up, with looks inspired by film characters. The first was a black catsuit with prosthetic hips that channeled Irma Vep, but also the female cat burglars of the hit French TV series “Cat’s Eyes.” Next came a Hitchcock heroine in a black leather sheath dress with inflated shoulder straps. Serre included 10 so-called couture looks, including a dress assembled from 500 silver metallic watch straps, and a sleeveless coat pieced together from fur stoles. Crisp tailoring was a reminder that Marine Serre is now a label where you can also find a business suit for both women and men. A starched white shirtdress topped with a roomy black suit jacket offered a compelling take on this season’s office wear trend. Beauty Gallery 29 Photos View Gallery And her looks now come with a full range of accessories, from MS Crush pumps with little gold crescents on the tips to Aurora bags. Gold coins dangled from purses, ears and wrists, part of a see now, buy now capsule jewelry collection. There were some reminders of the brand’s counterculture roots, such as tiger print catsuits and slipdresses trimmed with lingerie lace — including the less-than-subtle “hip cleavage” look worn by front row guest Bella Thorne. Serre herself opted for a black floor-length jersey dress suspended from a gold chain: her armor of choice for navigating the corridors of power. “I don’t think about money when I create. Of course, I have to have two brains because I’m also the owner of the company. But I think it’s important not to be driven by that in a creative position,” she said. “I want to really make garments that people can keep for life, so at least if you spend your money, you don’t throw it away.”
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